Regular kurti cutting with body measurement

In this session, we are going to learn the regular kurti cutting with body measurements.
Here, we will learn cutting for sleeveless regular kurti.
Cotton, rayon, silk, etc. fabrics have been used to make regular kurti.
You have to take 2m of fabric for a regular kurti and 2.5m of fabric for a long kurti.

Required Measurements For Regular Kurti Cutting:

Here is the method to take body measurements.

• Length – measure from shoulder till the length to be kept
• Shoulder – measure from the back side from left to right covering the whole shoulder
• Chest – measure from the top of the breast in a round
• Waist – measure 7-8″ below the chest till the thinnest part of the waist and take measurements in round
• Seat – measurement should be taken around the hips
• Height of cut – As long as the seat measurement is taken, the vertical measurement from the shoulder to the seat is the height of the cut
• Armhole Round – measure in the round near the joint of the hand

Method:

• After taking measurements as written, fold the fabric 2 times.

Steps with the figure:

• Now after taking the updated measurement take a sample of any measurement to know how much more fabric to cut for sewing.
  • Length: 40″
  • Shoulder: 15″
  • Chest: 36″
  • Waist: 32″
  • Seat: 40″
  • Height of cut: 21″
  • Armhole Round: 17″
  • Front neck length: 6″
  • Back neck length: 1-2″
• First of all, add 1.5″ to the length measurement of the kurti.
  • Total length = 40″+1.5″
• After that for shoulder measurement, take half of the shoulder and add 0.5″ from the folded side, reference in figure(a).
  • Shoulder = 15″/2 = 7.5″+0.5″ = 8″
• As suggested in figure(a), take the measurement of the armhole from the point of the shoulder, then make a straight line for the armhole and take measurements for the armhole.
• For armhole measurement, take 1/4 of the chest and deduct 2 from that.
  • Armhole = 36″/4 = 9″-2″ = 7″
• Draw the armhole circle separately on the front side and back side; (the black mark is for the front side while the red mark is for the back side)
• To check whether the armhole measurement is correct or not, we have to take the proper circumference(roundness) of the armhole.
• For front and back neck width, we will take 1/12 of the chest.
  • Neck width = 36″/12 = 3″
• Then from the point of the neck to the shoulder side give 2 crosses of 0.5″, as shown in below figure(a); (the black mark is for the front side while the red mark is for the back side)
• After marking these 2 points, the upper point will be of the back side and the lower point will be of the front side
• Making the front neck of any particular shape measuring the length of 6″ while the back neck measuring the length of  1.5″.

ARMHOLE EXPLANATION:

• Pointing 1.5″ extra for alteration(fitting) to draw back side armhole circle, as shown in figure(a1).
• Then make the midpoint of the armhole and draw a circle.
• Point 0.5″ down from the top near the shoulder for the front side armhole.
• As suggesting in figure(a1), pointing 0.5″ inward near the midpoint.
• Point 1″ from the bottom above the armhole line.
• Then draw the front side armhole circle.
• Where there is a 1.5″ alteration(fitting), keep both armhole circle in a straight line.
• While cutting, first cut the back side armhole circle and then the front side.
• Here, the black mark is for the front side armhole while the red mark is for the back side armhole.

• For perfect kurti fitting, we will take 0.5″ looser than the body measurement.
• As illustrated in figure(b), take the chest measurement where the line of the armhole touches, for measurement take 1/4 of the chest and add 0.5″.
  • Chest = 36″/4 = 9″+0.5″
• Take the waist measurement 7 to 8″ below the chest, for that take 1/4 of the waist and then add 0.5″ to that.
  • Waist = 32″/4 = 8″+0.5″.

• For seat measurement, take 1/4 of the seat and add 0.5″ to where the height of the cut from the top reaches the seat.
  • Seat = 40″/4 = 10″+0.5″
• Mark the seat measurement till the full length of the Kurti, as shown in the final figure(c).
• The vertical measurement from the shoulder to the seat is the height of the cut measuring 21″.

• Firstly, keep 1-2″ of back neck length and then do the cutting of the back side.
• Secondly, the back side is separated, then the front side cutting is done.
• Also, draw the length of the neck of the front side and then do cutting.
• All the measurements are given in inches(“).
• Now, we are ready to cut the kurti according to the points that we have marked.

Other Objectives:

• Women wear a regular kurti with leggings, straight pant, and palazzo pant for a traditional look.
• Also with jeans, sharara, and lehenga (chaniya) for an Indo-western look.
• The long kurti goes with leggings, straight pant, or palazzo pant.
• A short kurti goes with a sharara or jeans.
• Long, short, or designer kurti can be worn with lehengha(chaniya).

Conclusion:

• I hope this method of drafting the regular kurti will help you.
• We will learn cutting for the sleeves cutting method of the kurti in the next session.
• Later we will also learn about some stylish kurti like kaftan style kurti.