Straight pant cutting with body measurement

Here we will learn how to do straight pant cutting with body measurement, including pockets.
Firstly, take a stiff(thick) fabric to make straight pant in very easy steps.
Secondly, we need to take 2.5m of fabric for making straight pant (Roughly, the fabric should be twice the length).

Required Measurements For Straight Pant Cutting:

Here is the method to take body measurements.

• Full Length – from the waist till the length to be kept
• Waist – all-around measurement in the waist area
• Seat – full rotating measure in part of the seat
• Knee Round – measurement in the round near the knee
• Ankle Round(mori) – measure mori approximately and keep the width medium and according to how much you like

Method:

• After taking measurements, fold the fabric 2 times.
• In pant cutting, both the front parts are small and the back parts are large, then the cutting of both is to be done separately.
• Keeping 1 folded cloth, the front part is cut first.

Steps for straight pant cutting with the figure:

• Let’s take an example with measurements as given below:
  • Length: 36″
  • Waist: 34″ (1/4 = 8.5″)
  • Seat: 40″ (1/4 = 10″)
  • Knee round: 17″ (1/2 = 8.5″)
  • Ankle round(mori): 13″ (1/2 = 6.5″)

• The length is taken by arranging the cloth in 1 fold i.e. 2 head cloth.
• After that, a belt for elastic is made above the full length and it’s 1.5″ wide, you need to cut 4″ from the fabric to make 1.5″ of the belt.
• To get the full-length measurement of the pants you have to deduct 1.5″ from the top which we have already taken for the belt.
• For measuring seat width, take 1/4 of the seat and add 2.5″.
  • Seat = 40″/4 = 10″+2.5″
• Following the figure(a), for crotch length(joro), take 1/4 part of the seat.
  • Crotch length = 40″/4 = 10″
• For waist cutting, take 1/4 of the waist and add 2″.
  • Waist = 34″/4 = 8.5″+2″
• Then round from the waist to the seat, as shown in Figure (a).

• We will now add the knee round and ankle round.
• Take 1/2 of the measurement of the knee round near the knee.
  • Knee round = 17″/2 = 8.5″
• After keeping 2″ space from the fold, cut 1/2 of the ankle round(mori) for the front side while adding 1″ more for the back side, as shown below.
  • Ankle round = 12″/2 = 6.5″
• Then draw the cutting of the back side, increasing it by 3″ after the curve of 2.5″ of the width of the seat, as shown in given figure(b).

• The crotch length on the back side is 2″ higher from the front side, i.e. add 1″ to the back side and reduce 1″ from the front side.
• The width of the seat is also 3 to 3.5″ more at the back side than at the front side.
• As shown in the figure, cut 1.5″ more near the ankle round(mori) and the knee round.
• Increase the length by 2″ to bend the ankle round(mori).

• On the front side, measure the upper part of the waist and make the cutting for the belt.
• Making a belt by putting the canvas on the front side, and putting rubber in the belt on the backside.
• Zip can also be made on the front side.
• One can also make a pocket in the side by cutting a 12*12″ square piece.
• The figure is according to the measurements given above.
• The short part is of the front side while the large part is of the back side of the pant.
• All the measurements are given in inches(“).
• Now we are ready to cut the pant according to the points that we have marked.

Other Objectives:

• We can change the size of the length accordingly; for example, if we reduce the length then it becomes capri.
• These pants can also be considered as ankle length pant.
• One can also make variations in the design for the ankle round pattern.
• Possibly, we can also change the width of the belt.
• This straight pant can be paired with, a straight kurti, flared kurti, angrakha style kurti or kaftan kurti.
• Nowadays, one can wear it with a shirt too.

Conclusion:

• I hope this method of drafting the straight pants will help you.
• In the future, we will learn palazzo pant, dhoti pant, simple salwar, simple salwar(part-2) & sharara pant.