Simple salwar cutting with body measurements

Previously, we have already learned the cutting methods of straight pant, palazzo pant, and dhoti pant.
Here, we will learn the simple salwar cutting with all the respective body measurements.
For making a simple salwar, we will take 2m of fabric with having 42″ width(panno).
Cotton, silk, rayon, and all fabrics make the simple salwar.

Adding to that, if we want to make an oversized salwar then we require 2.5 fabric.
As there is more fabric used, there are more pleats.
2m, 2.5m, 3m, and 3.5m all have slightly different cutting methods.
2 to 2.5m fabric is used in simple salwar, 3m fabric is used in semi-patiala, and 3.25 to 3.5m fabric is used which is called full patiala.
Soft and flexible fabrics are used for all these salwars.

Required Measurements For Simple Salwar Cutting:

Here is the method to take body measurements.

• Full Length – from the waist to the floor
• Waist – all-around measurement in the waist area
• Seat – full rotating measure in part of the seat
• Ankle Round(mori) – measure mori approximately and according to how much you like

Method:

• For cutting a simple salwar, 2m fabrics are arranged in 2 folds.
• In a simple salwar, the belt and the lower pleated part are cut into 2 parts, as explained in figure(a).
• For cutting the salwar, the folded part is taken without the belt length.

Steps with the figure:

• Let’s take an example with measurements as given below:
  • Length: 42″
  • Waist: 34″
  • Seat: 42″
  • Ankle round(mori): 8-10″
• Firstly, for the length of the upper belt, we will measure 1/6 of the total length taken from the body measurement and add 2″(for stitching) to that.
  • Belt length = 42″/6 = 7″+2 = 9″
• Secondly, for the width of the upper belt, we will measure half of the seat and add 4″, 2″ stitching on both sides.
  • Belt width = 42″/2 = 21″+4 = 25″
• After that, the length of the bottom part of the salwar is considered as total length subtracting the belt length and adding 2″(for stitching) to that.
  • Bottom length = 42″-7″ = 35″+2 = 37″
• The ankle round(mori) is to be kept at 8″.
• Now, keep 1/4 of the total length for the crotch length.
  • Crotch(joro) length = 42″/4 = 10″ (10″ is basic crotch length but you have to change when the salwar is oversized)
• When the crotch length is 10″, take a length of 8″ and a bend of 2″, as shown in figure(b).
• So, cutting 8″ straight and 2″ in bend for crotch length.
• If the crotch width is 42″ and the fabric width(panno) is folded 2 times, then it will be 21″, if the fabric is more, it can be taken more.
• As shown in figure(b), take the length on the fold side, and take the ankle round(mori) where the length reaches.
• Take the width of the crotch as much as the fabric is.
• If there are 2 meters of fabric, there will be no direct fabric left for the belt.
• Make a belt from the triangle-like part that rises from the side, as drawn in the figure(b).

• On the side where there are four open parts, take the width of the belt in the triangle.
• Take the length of the belt on the side of the ankle round(mori) below.
• So, 4 triangles will come out in cutting, observe the below figure(c).
• Join the 4 triangles in a cross to form a belt).

Other Objectives:

• A simple salwar is also called a Punjabi salwar.
• Recently, a regular kurti has been worn over the simple salwar.
• But nowadays, a shirt or top is also worn over a simple salwar.
• Use elastic in the waist and a strip of canvas in ankle round(mori) for stitching the simple salwar.
• One can also make variations in the design for the ankle round pattern.

Conclusion:

• I hope the ladies’ simple salwar cutting method will help you.
• In the next session, we will learn sharara pant, simple salwar using 2.5m of fabric & full patiala/khajuri salwar cutting.