Simple Salwar Cutting (Part-2)

Previously, we have already learned the cutting methods of straight pant, palazzo pant, dhoti pant, sharara pant & full patiala/khajuri salwar cutting.
We have also learned the simple salwar cutting with body measurements using 2m fabric.
Today we will see how the cutting is done if there is more cloth in a simple salwar cutting (part-2).
So, here we will use 2.5m of fabric to make more pleats in the simple salwar.
Therefore, cutting is done a little differently.
Cotton, soft and flexible fabrics like silk, rayon, etc. all fabrics make the simple salwar.

Required Measurements For Simple Salwar Cutting:

Here is the method to take body measurements.

• Full Length – from the waist to the floor
• Waist – all-around measurement in the waist area
• Seat – full rotating measure in part of the seat
• Ankle Round(mori) – measure mori approximately and according to how much you like
• Note:  All the measurements for cutting are taken in the same way as for simple salwar, only the outer part(gher/flare) is made bigger by adding joints.

Method:

• For cutting a simple salwar, fabrics are arranged in 2 folds.

Steps with the figure:

• Let’s take an example with measurements as given below:
  • Length: 42″
  • Waist: 34″
  • Seat: 42″
  • Ankle round(mori): 8-10″
• Now, the length of the bottom part of the salwar is considered as the total length subtracting the belt length and adding 2″(for stitching) to that.
  • Bottom length = 42″-7″ = 35″+2 = 37″
• The ankle round(mori) is to be kept at 8.5″, as explained in figure(a).
• Now, keep 1/4 of the total length for the crotch length & add 1″ to that for more pleats.
  • Crotch(joro) length = 42″/4 = 10″+1 = 11″
• When the crotch length is 11″, take a length of 9″ and a bend of 2″.
• As shown in figure(a), draw a 9″*2″ crotch curve by joining near the crotch part.
• In a simple salwar, if the crotch width is 42″ and the fabric width(panno) is folded 2 times, then it will be 21″.
• But, if the fabric is more, it can be taken more i.e. you have to add 6-7″ to that.
  • Crotch(joro) width = 21″+6 = 27″
• As shown in the figure, if there is a 2.5m cloth, the belt part emerges from the straight part without joints.
• Take the length of the bottom from the two-fold sides and draw a line, where half of the measurement of the bottom comes i.e. the middle, draw a line along the ankle round(mori), then a triangle will come out.
• In this way, the crotch width will increase by adding joints, and the more pleats, the more flare is made.

• Belt measurement will be the same as the simple salwar cutting, as shown in figure(b).
• In that simple salwar, we have taken the belt from the sides but in this salwar because of more fabric, we can make the belt directly from the fabric.
• Firstly, for the length of the upper belt, we will measure 1/6 of the total length taken from the body measurement and add 2″(for stitching) to that.
  • Belt length = 42″/6 = 7″+2 = 9″
• Secondly, for the width of the upper belt, we will measure half of the seat and add 4″, and 2″ stitching on both sides.
  • Belt width = 42″/2 = 21″+4 = 25″

Other Objectives:

• A simple salwar is also called a Punjabi salwar.
• Recently, a regular kurti has been worn over the simple salwar.
• But nowadays, a shirt or top is also worn over a simple salwar.
• Use elastic in the waist and a strip of canvas in ankle round(mori) for stitching the simple salwar.
• One can also make variations in the design for the ankle round pattern.

Conclusion:

• I hope the ladies’ simple salwar cutting method will help you.
• You can also see the simple salwar cutting video on YouTube.