Full Patiala/Khajuri Salwar Cutting

Previously, we have already learned the cutting methods of straight pant, palazzo pant, dhoti pant, and sharara pant.
We have also learned the simple salwar cutting using 2m fabric, and simple salwar cutting(part-2) using 2.5m fabric.
Today we will learn the full patiala/khajuri salwar cutting method with body measurements.
This salwar has a very full flare, for which flexible fabrics such as rayon, silk, etc. are used.
This salwar is a type of Punjabi salwar.
It also has a flare near the legs, i.e. in the bottom, so it looks like a khajuri shape.
To make a full Patiala salwar, a 3.25-3.5m length of fabric is required, so 42″ width fabric is used.

Required Measurements For Full Patiala/Khajuri Salwar Cutting:

For drafting, the same measurements are taken as we learned in a simple salwar.
The belt, ankle round(mori), and crotch(joro) length are the same as the measurement of a simple salwar.
More fabric is used to increase the flare part so the cutting is slightly different.

Here is the method to take body measurements:

• Full Length – from the waist to the floor
• Waist – all-around measurement in the waist area(in this patiala waist measurement is only use to fix the upper elastic belt)
• Seat – full rotating measure in part of the seat
• Ankle Round(mori) – measure mori approximately and according to how much you like

Method:

• Arrange 2 folds of cloth equal to the length of the bottom.

Steps with the figure:

• Let’s take an example with measurements as given below:
  • Length: 42″
  • Seat: 42″
  • Ankle round(mori): 8-10″
• The measurement of belt length for cutting is taken from the seat measurement, as shown in figure(a).
• For belt length, take 1/6 of the total length and add 2″ for stitching.
  • Belt Length = 42″/6 = 7″+2 = 9″
• For belt width, take 1/2 of the seat and add 4″ to that.
  • Belt Width = 42″/2 = 21″+4 = 25″

• For the bottom length, firstly, subtract the belt length from the total length then add 2″ for stitching, as shown in figure(b).
  • Bottom Length = 42″-7″ = 35″+2 = 37″
• Now, keep 1/4 of the total length for the crotch length.
  • Crotch(joro) length = 42″/4 = 10″ (10″ is basic crotch length but you have to change when the salwar is oversized)
• When the crotch length is 10″, take a length of 8″ and a bend of 2″, as explained in figure(b).
• Take the crotch width as 42″, the same as the width of the fabric.
• Take double the bottom length of the fabric and cut the fabric from there.
• Then arrange the fabric as shown in figure(b) and keep the extra fabric in 1 fold.
• So keep the width of the flare as 21″+21″ = 42″.
• 2 parts are cut together and the other two parts are placed on top of the opposite part.
• Make a belt out of extra fabric, as depicted in figure(b).

• As shown in figure(c), the 4 triangle-like parts in the side are stitched and joined, so a flare of 42″ will be made.

• Figure(d) shows the pleats all over the salwar.

Other Objectives:

• A short time ago, a short-length regular kurti was worn over the full patiala salwar.
• But nowadays, a shirt or top is also worn over a full patiala salwar.
• For trending fashion, the pair of full patiala, crop top & shrug is also worn by many people.

Conclusion:

• I hope the full patiala/khajuri salwar cutting method will help you.