Shrug – Cutting & Stitching

Earlier, we have seen a few cutting and stitching methods designers wear like umbrella skirt, kaftan style kurti, etc.
Now, we will learn the shrug(long jacket) cutting & stitching method.
Georgette, chiffon, silk, cotton, net, etc. fabric is used to make shrugs.
You have to take 2-2.5m of fabric for a regular shrug and 2.5-3m of fabric for a long shrug.
In shrug the front part is open.

Required Measurements For Shrug Cutting:

Here is the method to take body measurements.

• Length – measure from shoulder till the length to be kept
• Shoulder – measure from shoulder to shoulder
• Chest – measure from the top of the breast in a round
• Waist – measure 7-8″ below the chest till the thinnest part of the waist and take measurements in the round
• Seat – measurement should be taken around the hips
• The sleeve measurement is the same as we have seen earlier.

Method:

• Arrange the cloth of 42″ width in a single fold, as shown in figure(a).

Steps with the figure:

CUTTING METHOD

• Now after taking the updated measurement take a sample of any measurement to know how much more fabric to cut for sewing.
  • Length: generally it is not fixed and the length is to be kept as per your choice
  • Shoulder: 16″
  • Chest: 36″
  • Waist: 32″
  • Seat: 40″
  • Sleeve length: 16″
• First, measure the neck width, for that take 1/12 of the chest.
  • Neck Width = 36″/12 = 3″
• Referred to as figure(a), the back neck length is to be kept at 1″.
• Then, for shoulder measurement, take half of it and add 0.5″ to that, as shown in figure(a).
  • Shoulder = 16″/2 = 8″+0.5 = 8.5″
• After that, for chest measurement, take 1/4 of it and add 1.5″ to that.
  • Chest = 36″/4 = 9″+1.5 = 10.5″
• For waist measurement, take 1/4 of it and add 1.5″ to that.
  • Waist = 32″/4 = 8″+1.5 = 9.5″
• Finally, for seat measurement, take 1/4 of it and add 1″ to that.
  • Seat = 40″/4 = 10″+1 = 11″
• Now, for armhole measurement, take 1/4 of the chest measurement and deduct 2 from that.
  • Armhole = 36″/4 = 9″-2 = 7″
• The cutting of the back is done in the same way as the regular kurti.

• For the front part, a portion equal to the width of the neck is cut, so it is kept open from there, as shown in below figure(b).
• Fold and bend the fabric where the front part is open or place a border or lace.

STITCHING METHOD

• To do shrug stitching, after cutting, join the front two parts and the back part from the shoulder.
• Then cut a long strip of cloth about 1.5″ wide and place it from the front opening to the back neck and to the other front opening.
• As we have seen in the neck pattern, to make the neck, take a pinch to put the strip where the round part comes.
• After doing this, put the sleeve.
• Then make a continuous cutting of 1″ in the side.
• An open cut can also be kept below the seat on the side and can also be packed.
• Then bend the bottom edge.
• If a cord(strip) is needed, make a cord and put it on the front of the waist.

Other Objectives:

• Length can be varied in the shrug cutting method.
• Like up to the knee, below the knee, up to the feet, or floor length can also be done.
• It can also be made with or without a sleeve.
• Shrug can also be tied in the front near the waist.
• Shrugs are typically worn as the outermost layer of an outfit, with a full shirt, or dress beneath.
• For western styling, a shrug can be worn with a tank top and skinny jeans.
• Designer shrug can also be done by changing different patterns.

Conclusion:

• I hope this method of cutting and stitching the shrug(long jacket) will help you.