Ladies’ Shirt – Cutting & Stitching

Once, we learned the regular kurti, kaftan style kurti, and the shrug.
In this session, we will learn the most stylish and most worn by ladies’ i.e. ladies’ shirt – cutting & stitching.
You must take 1.5-2m of fabric to make the ladies’ shirt.
Cotton fabric or soft fabric like chiffon is used for making the shirt.
Also, if you want to make a party wear shirt then you may take the transparent or net fabric.

Required Measurements For Shirt Cutting Method:

Here is the method to take body measurements.

• Length – measure from shoulder to seat and according to your choice
• Shoulder – measure from the back side from left to right covering the whole shoulder
• Chest – measure from the top of the breast in a round
• Waist – measure should be taken around the waist
• Seat – measurement should be taken around the hips
• Sleeve Length – measure from the shoulder in the hand till the length is to be kept
• Sleeve Round(mori) – take a hand measurement in the round where the length of the sleeve is reached

Method:

• To cut the shirt, keep the fabric in 2 folds and cut the back side first.

Steps with the figure:

CUTTING METHOD

• Now after taking the updated measurement take a sample of any measurement to know how much more fabric to cut for sewing.
  • Length: 33″
  • Shoulder: 16″
  • Chest: 36″
  • Waist: 32″
  • Seat: 40″
  • Sleeve length: 16″
  • Sleeve round(mori): 5″
• First, add 1.5″ to the length measurement of the kurti.
  • Total length = 33″+1.5″
• After that for shoulder measurement, take half of the shoulder and add 0.5″ from the folded side, reference in figure(a).
  • Shoulder = 16″/2 = 8″+0.5″ = 8.5″
• To draw the part of the chest, waist, and seat by taking the armhole.
• For armhole measurement, take 1/4 of the chest and deduct 2 from that.
  • Armhole = 36″/4 = 9″-2 = 7″
• Keeping the front neck length at 3.5″.
• For the front side neck width, we will take 1/12 of the chest.
  • Neck width = 36″/12 = 3″
• For the back side, the neck width is considered 0.5″ to stitch with a shoulder.
• As illustrated in figure(a), take the chest measurement where the line of the armhole touches, for measurement take 1/4 of the chest and add 2″.
  • Chest = 36″/4 = 9″+2 = 11″
• Take the waist measurement 7 to 8″ below the chest, for that take 1/4 of the waist and then add 2″ to that.
  • Waist = 32″/4 = 8″+2 = 10″
• For seat measurement, take 1/4 of the seat and add 1″ to where the height of the cut from the top reaches the seat.
  • Seat = 40″/4 = 10″+1 = 11″

• To cut the front side, take the open part of the button strip 1.5″ larger than the back side.
• For collar cutting, sleeve cutting should be done after jointing single or double collars as per measurement.
• The sleeve cutting method for the shirt is considered as we have already learned before.

STITCHING METHOD

• It is very simple and easy to stitch the shirt.
• To stitch the shirt, strip the button on the front side and then make the shoulder joint.
• When the shoulder is stitched, take the round measurement of the neck.
• Cuts can also be made near the side seat of the shirt.
• Make a little round cutting below and bend the bottom edge.
• By this method, the shirt is stitched.

SINGLE COLLAR

• To make a single collar in a shirt, take the round measurement of the neck.
• Let’s say, if the measurement of the neck is 15″, there is a cutting of 7.5″ in the fold, as shown in the below figure(b).
• Follow the figure and do cutting.

• After cutting the collar in this way, keep the fabric in the inner part and sew it up.
• Then joint one part of the collar with the shirt and fold the opposite part over it and stitch it, as referred to the figure(c) below.

Other Objectives:

• Shirts can be styled in an Indian look as well as in a Western look.
• Shirts can be worn in countless ways; on a jacket or sweater, slip into high-waisted jeans.
• Shirts can also be worn with straight pant, palazzo pant, or even with any skirt like an umbrella skirt or long skirt.
• These days shirts are also paired with dhoti pant for a creative look.

Conclusion:

• I hope this method of drafting the shirt will help you.
• In the next session, we will learn about the blazer(coat) collar.
• We will also learn about shirt (double collar) cutting method.