Ladies’ Shirt – Cutting & Stitching

Once, we learned the regular kurti, kaftan style kurti, and the shrug.
In this session, we will learn the most stylish and most worn by ladies’ i.e. ladies’ shirt – cutting & stitching.
You must take 1.5-2m of fabric to make the ladies’ shirt.
Cotton fabric or soft fabric like chiffon is used for making the shirt.
Also, if you want to make a party wear shirt then you may take the transparent or net fabric.

Required Measurements For Shirt Cutting Method:

Here is the method to take body measurements.

  • Length – measure from shoulder to seat and according to your choice
  • Shoulder – measure from the back side from left to right covering the whole shoulder
  • Chest – measure from the top of the breast in a round
  • Waist – measure should be taken around the waist
  • Seat – measurement should be taken around the hips
  • Sleeve Length – measure from the shoulder in the hand till the length is to be kept
  • Sleeve Round(mori) – take a hand measurement in the round where the length of the sleeve is reached

Method:

  • To cut the shirt, keep the fabric in 2 folds and cut the back side first.

Steps with the figure:

CUTTING METHOD

  • Now after taking the updated measurement take a sample of any measurement to know how much more fabric to cut for sewing.
    • Length: 33″
    • Shoulder: 16″
    • Chest: 36″
    • Waist: 32″
    • Seat: 40″
    • Sleeve length: 16″
    • Sleeve round(mori): 5″
  • First, add 1.5″ to the length measurement of the kurti.
    • Total length = 33″+1.5″
  • After that for shoulder measurement, take half of the shoulder and add 0.5″ from the folded side, reference in figure(a).
    • Shoulder = 16″/2 = 8″+0.5″ = 8.5″
  • To draw the part of the chest, waist, and seat by taking the armhole.
  • For armhole measurement, take 1/4 of the chest and deduct 2 from that.
    • Armhole = 36″/4 = 9″-2 = 7″
  • Keeping the front neck length at 3.5″.
  • For the front side neck width, we will take 1/12 of the chest.
    • Neck width = 36″/12 = 3″
  • For the back side, the neck width is considered 0.5″ to stitch with a shoulder.
  • As illustrated in figure(a), take the chest measurement where the line of the armhole touches, for measurement take 1/4 of the chest and add 2″.
    • Chest = 36″/4 = 9″+2 = 11″
  • Take the waist measurement 7 to 8″ below the chest, for that take 1/4 of the waist and then add 2″ to that.
    • Waist = 32″/4 = 8″+2 = 10″
  • For seat measurement, take 1/4 of the seat and add 1″ to where the height of the cut from the top reaches the seat.
    • Seat = 40″/4 = 10″+1 = 11″

Ladies' Shirt - Cutting & Stitching

  • To cut the front side, take the open part of the button strip 1.5″ larger than the back side.
  • For collar cutting, sleeve cutting should be done after jointing single or double collars as per measurement.
  • The sleeve cutting method for the shirt is considered as we have already learned before.

STITCHING METHOD

  • It is very simple and easy to stitch the shirt.
  • To stitch the shirt, strip the button on the front side and then make the shoulder joint.
  • When the shoulder is stitched, take the round measurement of the neck.
  • Cuts can also be made near the side seat of the shirt.
  • Make a little round cutting below and bend the bottom edge.
  • By this method, the shirt is stitched.

SINGLE COLLAR

  • To make a single collar in a shirt, take the round measurement of the neck.
  • Let’s say, if the measurement of the neck is 15″, there is a cutting of 7.5″ in the fold, as shown in the below figure(b).
  • Follow the figure and do cutting.

Ladies' Shirt - Cutting & Stitching

  • After cutting the collar in this way, keep the fabric in the inner part and sew it up.
  • Then joint one part of the collar with the shirt and fold the opposite part over it and stitch it, as referred to the figure(c) below.

Ladies' Shirt - Cutting & Stitching

Other Objectives:

  • Shirts can be styled in an Indian look as well as in a Western look.
  • Shirts can be worn in countless ways; on a jacket or sweater, slip into high-waisted jeans.
  • Shirts can also be worn with straight pant, palazzo pant, or even with any skirt like an umbrella skirt or long skirt.
  • These days shirts are also paired with dhoti pant for a creative look.

Conclusion:

You may also like...

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *