Princess Cut Blouse Cutting

This is the first time we will learn a proper blouse style cutting.
Once we have learned about crop top cutting,
Today we will see a princess cut blouse cutting with all the respective body measurements.
Blouse cutting is done in different ways like a blouse with 4 tucks, belt princess with 4 tucks, katori blouse, etc.
Princess cut blouse cutting can also be done with a pad or without a pad.

Required Measurements For Princess Cut Blouse Cutting:

Today we will learn how to do a princess cut with a deep back neck.
Here is the method to take body measurements.

• Length – measure from shoulder to waist
• Shoulder – measure from the back side from left to right covering the whole shoulder
• Upper Chest – measure from the upper part of the breast in a round
• Lower Chest – measure on the breast in a round
• Waist – measure the thinnest part of the waist and take measurements in round
• The sleeve-cutting method is the same for every garment.

Steps with figure:

• Now after taking the updated measurement take a sample of any measurement to know how much more fabric to cut for sewing.
  • Length: 15″
  • Shoulder: 15″
  • Upper Chest: 36″
  • Lower Chest: 39″
  • Waist: 32″
  • Frontside Neck: 6″
  • Backside Neck: 11″
• Firstly, we will see the backside cutting.
• The length of the backside neck of the blouse is 11″, so we will consider the shoulder as 5.25″ as per the rules of perfect body measurement for shoulder and armhole.
• Now as shown in figure(a), the armhole will be taken 1/6 of the chest.
  • Armhole = 36″/6 = 6″
• The armhole has a 1.5″ curve in the backside.
• After that, chest measurement will be done by taking 1/4 of the upper chest and adding 1.5″ for stitching to that.
  • Chest = 36″/4 = 9″+1.5 = 10.5″
• Finally, waist measurement will be done by taking 1/4 of the waist and adding 1″ for tucks and 1.5″ for stitching to that, as explained in figure(a) below.
  • Waist = 32″/4 = 8″+1+1.5 = 10.5″
• Regular tucks can be taken like this, in the waist apart from the margin, consider 9″ and take the middle point so 4.5″.
• After marking at the middle point, make darts of 0.5″ on both sides of the tucks as shown in figure(a).
• The length of the tucks is 4.5″ according to the length of the blouse.

• Finally, we will see the frontside cutting.
• For frontside cutting, take the circle of the armhole 0.5″ deeper than the backside, i.e. take 1″.
• Draw a 6″ neck from the front, as shown in figure(b).
• If the width of the neck is 2″ at the top, keep 2.25″ at the bottom.
• Then increase 0.5″ above and 1″ below in the neck.
• Increase 0.5″ above and 2″ below the armhole, rounding 0.5″ at the waist, as depicted in below figure(b).
• After increasing for tucks on both sides, determining the point of the breast can be measured from the body.
• Take 10-10.5″ from the top and the button bar from the side can take the 10th of the lower chest from the side.
  • Regular Tucks = 39″/10 = 3.9″(approximately 4-4.5″)
• Draw a straight line down from this point then draw a 2.5″ straight line at the top keeping a short 1.5″ at the bottom.
• Then take 0.25″ tucks near the armhole and draw the line in a curve, as explained in below figure(b).

• In this way, armhole tucks and main tucks have been joined.
• Then cutting both of them will make two points as shown in the below figure(c).

• In the princess cut, the pad can be placed where the point of the breast is.
• A fold comes in the front side when hooking at the back side, so there is no need to add 0.5″ near the neck.
• But increase 0.5″ where the button strip is to be placed.

Objectives:

• The designer blouse and lehenga choli have more princess cut in the blouse.
• In princess cut, a deep boatneck blouse and collared blouse can be done.
• In all the blouses, the princess cut is done using the same method, but the shoulder and armhole are different according to the pattern and length of the back neck.
• The boat neck princess cut is also done in this way.
• The measurement of the shoulder and armhole has changed.
• The rules are also different, with every pattern being different.

Sample Image:

Conclusion:

• I hope this method of princess cut blouse cutting method will help you in making the perfect blouse.
• In the near future, we will learn about 4 tucks blouse cutting.